In the world of horology the view is polarised regarding oversized watches. Initially people thought it was a temporary fashion trend that would gracefully disappear. Clearly this isn’t the case as more and more brands are unveiling larger models. Recently I have written editorials about MB & F, Urwerk, Cabestan, 4N and Rebellion. Most of their models exceed 50mm illustrating there is a special niche in the market. It also proves that serious collectors are prepared to pay big money for this style of timepiece.
For most people U-Boat are synonymous with bold and masculine timepieces. Originally they produced watches with Japanese Quartz movements and sold them in fashion retail stores. Gradually and over time their watches have become more sophisticated. On my own website I reviewed one of their latest models called the U-42 Unicum. In my opinion the watch has a Steampunkesque façade due to its distressed handmade appearance. With a price tag of over $12,000 it might not appeal to a large audience but I found it generally comfortable to wear.
The U-Boat Chimera 48 Carbonio GMT is a new timepiece that will be officially unveiled at Baselworld in March. Based on the pictures I have seen it is definitely one of my favourites. With a diameter measuring 48mm it is smaller than the U-42 Unicum. However by most peoples standards it is still an imposing watch and will therefore only appeal to a small minority of buyers. I suspect the watch would feel very comfortable to wear. Primarily this is down to the stylish design and choice of super lightweight material used in production. Interestingly this is U-Boat’s first ever forged carbon watch.
Visually the Chimera 48 Carbonio GMT is striking and instantly recognisable as a U-Boat watch. The dial is composed of two superimposed layers and compliments the matt black textured case. Carbon is one of my favourite materials for its industrial aesthetic and lightweight qualities. I love details like the brown stylised 24 hour hand and chronograph counters. Other features include the company’s trademark crown cap and massive pushers. Overall the eclectic composition is refined and the level of finishing first rate.
To power the watch, U-Boat has modified a self-winding Caliber ETA 7754 to their own specifications. The movement comprises 25-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This personalised mechanism is perfectly showcased through the sapphire crystal case back. The Chimera 48 Carbonio GMT features hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph and GMT functions. It also has a power reserve of 48 hours and is water resistant to a depth of 50 metres.
The Chimera 48 Carbonio GMT has bespoke hand finished calf leather strap with titanium buckle. Priced at: €9,000 (approximately $12,260).
